"I could go on and tell you how the Nile looks in the moonlight, how perfect the tennis courts are here, how the peculiar customs of Egypt attracts one, how the [Mosky Bazaar] is so fascinating -- but these can all wait until another time.... Actual schoolwork starts tomorrow and I hope that part of my life is agreeable, for if it is, I know I shall fall in love with Cairo. ... I was a little afraid of what I should find here; now I'm so pleasantly surprised that I want to tell everyone about it." [September 23, 1928]
Like many starting a new chapter far from home, John M. Larimer's excitement jumps off the page in his earliest letter to home, written on the eve of the first day of classes at AUC in 1928. A short-termer, Larimer stayed at the University for three years teaching English, during which he befriended many, traveled in Cairo and beyond, and observed a nation in transition.
Many Firsts
In his first year at AUC, it appears Larimer worked hard and seized as many opportunities as he could to get acquainted with life in Egypt and meet new people. He often writes of exploring different parts of the city, the difficulties of teaching to non-native English speakers and the obvious and subtle differences between Egypt and the United States.
"This afternoon a party of us is going on what is called a 'fluka' ride, on the Nile. The Nile has overflowed its banks, and so we can ride right up to the pyramids. ... Last Saturday we went to visit the mosques around Cairo. Some of them are beautiful; all of them are capable of exciting and stirring one's imagination. I saw the place where Napoleon encamped when he was fighting the Battle of the Pyramids [Battle of Imbaba]. In one of the mosques there are several cannon balls which his soldiers 'planted'; they still stand, to give truth to history." [October 20, 1928]
"The work at the University has not been easy. ... Shall I describe a typical class? The minute I walk into the room the entire class rises and salutes me. ... I tell them to write in their composition books. They do not understand. I repeat. I explain. I demonstrate. I illustrate. I do all manner of things to let them know they are to write in their composition books. Then I sit down at my desk feeling relieved that the idea has gone across. A student rises energetically from his seat: 'But, Sir, am I to write here?' as he points to his composition book. Wearily I say that he has guessed correctly." [October 7, 1928]
Larimer's letters also touch on the gender dynamics of the time. In 1928, the University had just one female student, two female staff members and no female faculty members. Nevertheless, the only female student outperformed her classmates at the 1929 annual spelling competition:
"This past week has been particularly full. On Friday we had the school spelling match, which was closely contested. It was quite interesting. The only girl student in the entire school won the cup and the money. [The] American vice-consul was here to present it. The girl had a lot of courage ... to get up before a big hall filled with boys and compete against them. And the boys over here believe a girl can't hold a candle to them in any respect. Well, she showed them." [February 24, 1929]
"In my senior year I participated in the spelling contest, and until today I remember it as one of my thrilling experiences. ... We all stood on the platform in Ewart Memorial Hall ... There were 19 boys and myself on the platform. One by one the students who misspelled words left the platform, until finally there was only two of us left: George Davit and myself. And then George tripped and I won the contest. The applause was terrific and the prize a golden sovereign pound, which I have turned into a pin and which I still have and cherish. I remember my mother attending that spelling contest and how proud and happy she was."
-- Eva Habib El Masri '31
AUC's first female student
AUC Oral Histories and Reminiscences Collection
Trouble in Paradise
During his second year at AUC, Larimer began experiencing regular headaches, and he ended up needing to have a few teeth pulled. Following the surgery, he took a 10-hour train ride 80 kilometers north of Luxor to Neg Hamadi for a break. He wrote to his father on December 11 describing the trip.
"The college and I decided I needed a little rest, so I came up here to this native village of Bahgoura ... I'm staying with a former student of AUC (Berty). His father is a Bey, the wealthiest man around here. I'm living a life of ease such as one dreams about. No work to do, and all the time in the world to do it in.
This morning Berty and I rode horses around the large estate. ... Once we went to a field being plowed for cotton with a new tractor, it being used as an experiment here. I drove it around the field once. ... We are going to make a daily practice of taking the horses out until I return to Cairo.
Last evening Berty and I went to [a] 'church,' if you could call the place that; to my surprise the minister called upon me to speak a few words on the subject of 'Justice Raises a Nation.' Well, I did, and felt quite important in having my 'speech' translated into Arabic. Despite the tarboosh (fez) which I wear as part of my ordinary dress now (I even wear one this moment, in my room), I was the subject of steady and unwavering inspection throughout the whole service.
At dusk last evening, just as the sun set, we took a walking tour of the village. It is impossible to describe this scene. The one time of the day when the Egyptian is quiet and peace seems to hang over all. As we strolled along, the peasants would rise to their feet and exchange greetings with me. Some came forward and shook hands, for that is an essential part of the Egyptian life." [December 11, 1929]
Larimer made it back to Cairo for the holidays, sending a telegraph to his family wishing them a Merry Christmas.
Egypt in Flux
Larimer arrived in Egypt during a time of political instability and evolving movements. It was six years after the United Kingdom had recognized Egyptian independence; however, the country remained nominally independent. While Larimer was finding his bearings as a teacher, King Fuad I, ruler of Egypt, was struggling against the growing influence of the Wafd (nationalist) party. Larimer often describes the political climate to his family throughout his letters.
"The parliament building is only a couple blocks away from [AUC], just up this same street, so the parliamentary procession had to pass by our school. Directly across the street is a large government grounds where cannons were shot off to the King as he rode by." [January 11, 1930]
"Right now the country is up in the will happen. Of course, it has been this way for a long time as I have said, but now conditions are even worse. The King has moved to Alexandria, having come down the other day preceded by two single engines, to clear the track for him. As usual, his yacht is kept steamed up night and day, for any sudden departure that he might think advisable. The night before last -- even when the king was still in Cairo -- his yacht kept pouring smoke out of the funnel as late as two o'clock. I happen to know this because I was participant in a moonlight boat ride and swim out in the harbor that evening. Everyone here in Alexandria is joking about the coming 'revolution', and making plans but underneath their levity is a certain amount of truth, and justified fear." [July 12, 1930]
Despite the ongoing turmoil, Larimer kept to his work and still found time to have fun. In a letter from Fall 1930 where he described the continuing political uncertainty, he closed with this:
"Yesterday evening there was a late Hallo'een party at Maadi. It was real nice, and the food was excellent, although I had to leave for another engagement before the butterscotch pie had been served. My, how I regretted that." [November 9, 1930]
All excerpts and photos courtesy of the University Archives
Explore the full collection of Larimer's letters here.